DIY


	Sod Installation Made Easy! Instructions for "Do It Yourself" Sod Installation & Lawn Care

1. Soil Preparation
     Clear the area to be sodded of debris. Remove rocks, roots and break up large clumps. If there have been other grasses you do not want coming back, spray the grass to kill it and let it sit for a week to insure the grass is dead before tilling. Rough grade and get the main contour of the area to be sodded close to its final state. Take care of drainage problems and slope soil away from the house foundations. Make sure large areas will drain and that there are no low spots.

     Once the area is clear of foreign weeds, grass and debris, add three cubic yards of compost per 1,000 square feet of lawn area to clay, sandy, or marginal soils. This organic matter that will help brake up clay and help sand hold water. Cow, poultry, sheep, any manure compost works well. Then rototill the compost into the area to a depth of 6" or more. The deeper you till the soil, the better chance your new sod will have at developing a deep root system that will use water more efficiently and stay healthier. If planting fescue, till to a depth of at least one to two feet.

2. Install Sprinkler System
     Although a sprinkler system is not mandatory to have a great looking lawn, it will save time and money in the long run. Due to the dryness of the Colorado climate, an efficient sprinkler system will address the following issues:
Keep your lawn healthier, save water, save time, & save money due to even coverage.
Allows you to water at "smart" times in late evening & early morning when your lawn can utilize the water better and less evaporation occurs.
Water more often when first establishing lawn.
Water a mature lawn less; soaking it to develop a deep root system, conserve water, and save money.
Not have to worry about your lawn drying out when you go on vacation.
Increase the value of your home.
If you are looking for someone to install a sprinkler system or do some landscaping, check out our Landscaping Referrals

3. Fine Grade
     Grade the lawn bed after it is tilled and sprinkler lines have been filled in and settled to get the desired drainage and slopes. Break up the soil so it is smooth, clump free and powder fine. Check for proper drainage by applying water and making sure it drains, especially away from the house. Be sure to keep the grade 1" below the level of the sidewalks and driveways which border the lawn so the sod will be flush. This final grade should reflect the contour of how you want your yard to look once the sod is laid. Sod will not fill in low spots.

Because sod is a mass of living grass plants and is extremely perishable, install sod immediately after being delivered or picked up. Do not let it sit!

4. Sod installation
a. Apply Green Valley Turf Co. 20-20-10 + Iron or a similar high analysis fertilizer to the bare ground immediately before laying sod. Adding compost to the soil is no substitute for this step. By putting the fertilizer under the sod, it will make contact with the roots immediately and get the nutrients it needs while establishing. Be sure to sweep fertilizer off all concrete before watering because the iron from any fertilizer will stain concrete once it gets wet.

b. Place a number of slabs on the ground following a long straight line. Cut a few slabs in half if starting against a straight line so you can stagger the rows like brick work. Use a sidewalk, fence or stretch a line to follow to keep slabs straight. If you are installing on a hill, start at the bottom. This makes it easier to pull the sod into place to get a tight fit. If the hill is steep, anchor the sod with wooden stakes of any kind.

c. Pull slabs tightly together making sure ends and edges are butted together so as to avoid open joints. Open joints let air get to the roots along the edges causing them to dry and wilt. Also DO NOT OVERLAP as the same results will occur. Use a knife to cut or tear sod around various obstacles such as flower beds and walkways.

Inspect your completed areas and fill in any small voids with pieces. If you are working in hot weather, as soon as you have laid an area large enough to water, set a sprinkler and let it run while you are laying in an adjacent area. All sodded areas must be adequately watered as soon as possible, regardless of hot or cool weather. The dry climate of the front range can dry out new sod extremely quickly.

5. Rolling of Your New Lawn
Rolling is not necessary but helps pack new sod down into moist soil for quicker rooting and remove air pockets. When you are finished installing sod, water the area enough that a roller will pack sod to the lawn bed but your foot steps will not sink into the new laid sod. Roll until the sod is smooth and seams are packed together.

6. Water, Water, Water...
     The key to establishing new sod is to keep it properly watered for the first 2-3 weeks. Immediately after installing (and rolling), water the sod thoroughly making it spongy to the step. The lawn should be so squishy that you will sink into it if you walk on it. Keep it thoroughly wet to a depth of 4" to 6" for 2 weeks. A screw driver or a knife can be stuck into the new sod to determine the moisture depth. You can also lift a corner of a slab and dig into the soil. During this time stay off the sod so that it can take root and you will not sink in.

     In hot weather, sprinklers should run several times each day to keep it in this state. In other words, the lawn should never be allowed to dry out during the first 2 weeks. If allowed to dry out the sod will shrink, brown and may die. The roots of your new sod will penetrate the soil faster and root down sooner if properly watered. Heavy watering also helps the sod melt into the the existing soil. After these first two weeks, start backing off the water slowly so you will not shock new sod. Close attention still needs to be paid to keeping the lawn moist, green and well watered. You never want to let your new lawn get dried out to the point it starts to wilting. If it turns a grey-blue cast and foot prints will not disappear within half-hour after walking across it, it is wilting and needs water immediately. After a month, you can start watering it on a regular schedule according to the weather. See Lawn Care for complete watering instructions for an established lawn.

7. First Few Mowings
     Your new lawn should be mowed with a sharp blade when the grass is 2 1/2" to 3" long after 2 weeks. If your new lawn reaches over 3 1/2" before 2 weeks, dry it enough to walk on and mow using extreme caution not to disturb the sod or pull up the corners or edges. Mow off no more than one third of the height of the grass or use the highest setting on your mower. If the first mowing takes place after 2 weeks, again exercise caution not to disturb the sod and mow off no more than 1/3 of the grass height. After these first few mowings, your lawn should be mowed to a height of 2" to 3" inches regularly. See Lawn Care for complete mowing instructions.

8. First Fertilization
     After 4-6 weeks, fertilize your lawn using a high analysis fertilizer to continue vigorous root development and help your lawn continue to establish. Be sure your lawn is dry so the fertilizer will not stick to the grass leaves and burn them. Water after fertilizing to wash the food to the surface of the soil. Your lawn should be fertilized regularly to maintain healthy growth and good color. See Lawn Care for complete annual fertilizing information.


	For After Care, click here...




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